Luoyang, the peony city that stole a British girl's heart

Source: chinadaily.com.cn | 2026-06-01 18:10

Jane Jones (second from right) and her friends enjoy themselves with peony flowers in Luoyang. [Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]

Arriving in Beijing for a four-month exchange programme, I never expected to become so au fait with the city of Luoyang. However, after two week-long visits, I now consider myself Luoyang's self-appointed British Representative. Whether its peony flowers, traditional dresses or surprising soups, this city constantly impresses with its vibrancy and warmth.

In truth, I had not been too enthusiastic to visit Luoyang at first. I am studying Chinese at Beijing Language and Culture University and am currently racing against time to finish my Master's thesis. The idea came from my colleague back in Barcelona, Spain, who suggested that I take part in the Peony Festival at the beginning of April. As a tour guide and native of Luoyang, he assured me it would be worth my time. After a bit of persuasion, I eventually left my academic responsibilities for one week and took the train down to Henan province.

Jane Jones (left) learns Chinese embroidery under instruction in Luoyang. [Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]

Seeing the gardens of newly-opened peony flowers not only impressed me, but convinced me to come back for a second visit, this time a week in May, to learn about typical local handcrafts, namely embroidery, papercutting and ceramics. I believe that every place deserves a second visit, and never has this been truer. Upon returning to Luoyang, I was able to explore the city more freely, discovering "off the beaten track" gems such as riverside parks and stunning rooftop cocktail bars. I now feel ready to tell the world about what this ancient but thriving city has to offer.

Jane Jones dressed up in a Tang Dynasty clothing in Luoyang. [Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]

Luoyang has spoilt me with daily pleasures, but there are a few that stand out in particular: the Longmen grottoes, of course, are a must-see for anyone interested in China's history; parading through the old town in Tang dynasty (618-907) gowns is an experience I will not forget; the delicate fragrance of peony flowers embedded in warm cakes and ice creams. But for me, it was the contact I had with local people that touched me the most. My embroidery teacher became a lasting friend and gave me my first experience wearing an authentic silk qipao. As we walked along the riverside in such beautiful clothing, I realized that Luoyang's strength is its attention to detail and beauty.

Jane Jones (second from right) listens attentively at Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang. [Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]

Anyone planning a trip to China will not be disappointed by the richness of Luoyang. City fed by seven rivers, abundant in colours and flavours. Luoyang is a city I to which I will surely return.